Nani Iro Unfolding Jacket
This year, I’m determined to cut into more of my precious fabrics that I have been saving and too scared to cut into. YOLO. Over the years I’ve squirreled away many beautiful pieces of fabric, including this green Nani Iro double gauze floral which I purchased somewhere around 2015 or 2016.
At the time I intended to use it to make an Esme kaftan from Lotta and Alexia’s book, but after making this muslin and realizing that life with three kiddos and a sewing pattern business didn’t involve quite as much swanning around in kaftans poolside (to continue the fantasy: in Palm Springs, at the Ace Hotel, drinking cocktails…OK! Moving on!) as I had originally envisioned when I purchased the fabric, so I set it aside.
Our story continues last month, when, after noticing that one of the most-worn items in my wardrobe was this Wiksten Unfolding jacket, I decided that the best way to put this fabric to good use and insure that it would be regularly worn was to make another jacket.
As before, I used the Wiksten jacket pattern from Making Magazine - which was also later released as a standalone pattern, but is no longer available.*
The original pattern is lined but as with the first version I made, I didn’t line this one; instead I used french seams inside and folded up the bottom edge for the hem. It’s worth mentioning that this is essentially the exact same amount of sewing as if were to you line it, since finishing the seams with either a french or flat fell (as I did last time) finish involves sewing each seam twice. This has the added benefit of using less fabric and creating a lighter layer (spring!).
*But if you don’t happen to own this pattern and wish you did, I’ve been suggesting the Moss Jacket by Helen’s Closet as an alternative - it looks fantastic and you could create a jacket similar to this one!
I wanted to incorporate some hand-stitching into the jacket. After cutting the pieces and sewing the main seams on a Saturday morning while the kids and Mr Rae played video games, I spent the rest of the weekend slowly hand-stitching the neckband, the hem and sleeve cuffs, and the pocket tops before topstitching the pockets on with a machine. This made the entire project go quite quickly and lent itself better to family life on a weekend where it makes more sense for me to sit and stitch on the sofa than off by myself in front of a sewing machine. I do like how hand-stitching is a family-adjacent activity much like knitting.
I’ve already worn it a number of times despite the cold late winter we’ve been having, so I’m really looking forward to wearing the hell out of it this spring and summer.
If you’ve been on the fence about cutting into a precious piece fabric (or skein of yarn, etc) that you’ve been saving but just don’t seem to be able to pick a project and jump in, I encourage you to take the plunge! What are you waiting for?