Washi Update: Tester Roundup
Please note: The pattern previously known as “Washi” has been renamed “Trillium.” Read about the name change here. It’s the same lovely pattern, just with a new name!
When we decided to update the Washi pattern, I knew it would be an big undertaking, because I wanted to not only add sizes, but add an additional bodice piece for fuller busts (our “C/D” bodice - something our other women’s woven patterns — Gemma, Beatrix and Josephine —also offer, by the way). This meant we needed testers not only for the all of the new sizes, but for the new bodice pieces in every size, too. I’m so happy that we were able to have a fantastic group of testers to make muslins and offer feedback throughout the process.
Now that we’ve launched the new and improved Washi Dress PDF, I’m excited to showcase some of the wonderful versions our testers made! You can see that in some cases their bodices have the additional added dart below the bust — this is a feature of the C/D bodice and I’ve tried to note this below. I’ve also linked to their social media posts when applicable so that you can follow them online and you see more photos, or future photos if they post them!
Laura (who used the C/D bodice) says:
“I was pretty happy with how well this fit without adjustment.
For my final version I made some of my typical adjustments: narrow upper back adjustment to reduce the small amount of gaping at the back neckline and a small dart placement adjustment. Since I made my final version in double gauze, I decided to line the bodice with lightweight cotton voile as per Rae's online video tutorial.”
Find the bodice lining tutorial that Laura mentions here.
Emily (@mycraftylittleself) says:
“The Washi dress is a pattern for everyone! Beginners will learn basic sewing techniques for darts, sewing with elastic thread (shirring), and using bias tape while working on a stable woven fabric.
More intermediate/advanced sewists (like me!) will enjoy finding a way to use all of those beautiful cotton prints while completing a woven project that doesn't include any fasteners like buttons or zippers. It is an all-around fun garment to sew! If you are anything like me, you will be planning your next version before you've finished your first, which is always the mark of a good pattern for me. This is the first summer the Washi dress will be available in my size range and I think it will be a great lightweight dress I can easily throw on with sandals and look put-together!”
Emily sewed both her versions using the A/B bodice. Emily is 5’9” and the only adjustment she made was to add 3” to the skirt length so it falls just below the knee.
Natalie (@sewhungryhippie) sewed up her Washi with a C/D bodice and no mods. I love her bright colors, and the pug cameo!
Donna (@sassi214) (below) made her gorgeous Washi out of a cotton-linen blend. She’s tall (5’10”), so lengthening the bodice by about an inch gave her a better fit. She adjusted the waist darts (on the C/D bodice) by lengthening them and moving them in toward the center. I like how she lined up the waist dart with the outermost skirt pleat!
Deborah (below) made her Washi out of a linen/cotton blend. She used the C/D bodice and made some adjustments that she usually makes for a good fit: she brought in the armscye, rotated the bust dart down, and graded between sizes. She also used the A/B neckline for a higher neckline; we lowered the C/D neckline a bit to recreate a similar proportion between the A/B and C/D bodice, but I love it this way too!
Deborah, BTW is an amazing ceramic artist and we feel it’s important that you follow her on Instagram @fishmuseum so you can know more about her pin cushions!
Joan (above and below) says:
“I tried making a Washi from knit years ago after teaching a class and becoming smitten with the new techniques we learned. I was just out of the size range and the knit made it work.
Delighted to have been included in testing the update. I have made several now in my size in lovely lawns, and a couple quilting cottons. Have my eye on some linen and textured gauze next. Super comfortable and breezy. So easy to wear!”
Joan omitted the cap sleeve in all her Washis, and if you look closely at her blue lawn version (above) you can see she used a bias tape binding on the neckline. Joan recommends testing your shirring on scrap fabric fabric for every new Washi you make — different fabrics respond differently to shirring!
Maggie (below) made some precise modifications for a lovely fit, by lowering the bust apex and performing a FBA on the C/D bodice, adding 1/2”. She shifted the waist darts inward to point to the modified apex, added 1/2” to the back length to match the front, and widened the waist darts to absorb the width added to the bodice waist. She used a lightweight cotton lawn for this version.
She also added an extra row of shirring, which is sometimes super helpful to spread out the gathers! See Maggie’s IG post here.
Jannie (below) had already made a few Washis before we updated the pattern, and we were thrilled to have her on board as a tester so she could compare her modified bodice pieces to our newly generated ones. She used the C/D front bodice with an additional full bust adjustment (the pattern instructions include hints to make modifications to get just the right fit!). See Jannie’s IG post here.
Jannie says:
“I love how they included waists darts as I also did on my original version, and I love the slanted darts. I love that they have taken a good step towards size inclusivity, and that they have done it with extended cup sizes. I have always found it easy to grade a pattern up. But a really large bust adjustment has messed up many armscyes for me. I also love that they include upper bust measurements in their sizing chart, to allow you to pick your size with great accuracy.”
Emiko made a lovely dress using the A/B bodice. Switching up the stripe directions for the bodice and skirt is such a fun detail! She says:
“The instructions were very detailed and user friendly, so easy to follow. All the pattern pieces came together nicely, and fit was just spot on.
I not only love the fit, but also details such as shirring are very pretty and makes the dress look fitted without zippers or buttons.”'
Take a look at Emiko’s IG post here.
Jenny (@thewardrobearchitect) did a lovely job on her Washi — I love the layered styling with the turtleneck! Jenny used the C/D front bodice and graded her pattern pieces between sizes for a great fit when her hip and bust measurements put her in two different sizes.
Kten says:
“The washi dress by Made by Rae was the first indie pattern I ever bought. I purchased the pdf on sale going into Memorial Day I think in 2013? I was drawn to the modern look with the half moon neckline, cinched back and empire waist. 7 years on and I still love it. The new cup sizes make it fit even better and it’s so comfy for going into summer. I really want to add a giant ruffle to the bottom and make a maxi version :)”
See Kten’s IG post here.
Michelle (below) used a gorgeous lightweight cotton border print for her Washi (love it!), which meant her dress is a bit longer than usual. I love the pattern placements! Michelle sewed this with the A/B Bodice, and her only modification was to shorten the bust dart a bit. She made notes about sewing this Washi in her IG highlights. Her IG feed is @saffron4859.
I want to say an enormous THANK YOU to our wonderful testers (including the ones not shown in this post!!), for all their hard work and feedback throughout this project.